9 years old, distilled 22nd October 2008, 61.4% abv, First Fill Ex-Oloroso Hogshead, 277 bottles, dram price C

The nose has caramel, liquorice, marmalade and hints of figs. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has hazelnut, marmalade, caramel and hints of balsamic vinegar. The finish has balsamic vinegar and caramel.

Water brings out tight, thin rapidly expanding whorling that settles into brief mottling. The nose gains ginger, and loses the figs. The body gains ginger and more marmalade, and loses the hazelnut. The finish gains a little marmalade.

A big finish, in all aspects of the term.

One for autumnal evenings.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I'd have another dram.