7 years old, distilled 25th November 2010, 60.5% abv, Re-charred Hogshead, 317 bottles, dram price A

The nose has charcoal, vinegar, bonfire ash and a hint of vanilla. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has ash, vanilla, pears and then a big hit of bonfire smoke. The finish is vanilla sponge cake and bonfire smoke.

Water brings out thin, rapidly expanding whorling that settles into brief mottling. The nose gains pears and custard, and bonfire smoke. The body gains soft lemon notes and more ash and bonfire smoke. The finish gains more bonfire smoke.

Islay? Nope. Not that SMWS members are wedded to regions, but this Speyside distillery is punching far above its weight with this dram. Magnificent.

One for winter evenings.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I’d like more than one bottle.