9 years old, distilled 16th December 2009, 61.4% abv, Re-charred Hogshead, 264 bottles, dram price B

The nose has farmyard notes, followed by bonfire smoke and a hint of maple syrup. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has bonfire smoke, silage, maple syrup, bacon and hints of lemon. The finish has bonfire smoke, maple syrup and a hint of lemon.

Water brings out thin, rapidly expanding whorling that settles quickly into brief mottling. The nose gains walnuts and toffee, but loses nothing. The body gains walnut, toffee and a little more lemon, but loses nothing. The finish gains some more lemon and a little silage, but loses nothing.

A dirty, dirty dram - yet sweet. It’s a belter, and proves you don’t have to be Islay to be great peat.

One for autumn evenings.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I’d like more than one bottle.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.