10 years old, distilled 16th August 2007, 60.9% abv, Refill Ex-Sherry Butt, 560 bottles, dram price C

The nose has sultanas, raisins, orange peel and plums. Figgy plum pudding? The mouthfeel is thick with a little cling. The body has orange peel and then sultanas and raisins, with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg. The finish has cinnamon and sultanas, with orange peel and nutmeg growing more dominant as it dries.

Water brings out compact whorling that lingers briefly without mottling. The nose gains barley sugar water and loses the raisins and sultanas. The body gains boiled sweets - blackcurrant flavoured ones especially - and the cinnamon from the unwatered palette diminishes a little. There's also now some hints of cinder toffee. The finish has less orange peel and more boiled sweets, with cinnamon but not nutmeg.

A belter of a dram, for those fireside evenings.

Technical score: 3.5/5

Personal preference: Just the one dram, thanks.