15 years old, distilled 6th November 2002, 59.7% abv, Second Fill Ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 247 bottles, dram price C

The nose has apricot tarts, green apples, fudge and white pepper. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has fudge, apricot, kiwi fruit and white pepper. The finish has white pepper and kiwi fruit.

Water brings out thick, rapidly expanding whorling that settles quickly into mottling. The nose gains more apricot and some heavily toasted bread, and loses the fudge and some of the white pepper. The body gains vanilla and soda water, and loses the fudge and some of the white pepper. The finish gains cinnamon and loses the kiwi fruit, but not the white pepper.

With white pepper being one of my less favourite notes, this is never going to be a hit for me - but it’s well constructed and has an interesting change with water, and I can see why others will like it.

One for autumn afternoons.

Technical score: 3.5/5

Personal preference: Just the one dram, thanks.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.