9 years old, distilled 22nd October 2008, 57.7% abv, First Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel, 251 bottles, dram price A

The nose is quiet but has lemon, “meadow fresh” fabric conditioner, and hints of pineapple. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has tarragon, mint, lemon, pineapple and kiwi fruit. The finish has lemon, tarragon, mint and a hint of pineapple.

Water brings out thin, rapidly expanding whorling that settles into brief mottling. The nose gains honeycomb, eucalyptus, rosemary and loses the lemon in favour of the pineapple. The body gains a hint of pot-pourri, a lot more herbal notes - rosemary, basil, and more - and loses the lemon and pineapple. The finish gains herbal notes and geraniums, and loses the pineapple.

At nine years old this is demonstrating considerable complexity and grace. It’s a pleasant surprise, and one I intend to return to.

One for summer afternoons.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I’d like a bottle.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.