10 years old, distilled 1st September 2008, 59.8% abv, Refill Ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 259 bottles, dram price C

The nose has seafood buffets, brine, beach barbecues, lemon and a distant driftwood bonfire. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has barbecued fish, lemon, tarry ropes, white chocolate and bonfire smoke. The finish is lemon, bonfire smoke and tar.

Water brings out thick, rapidly expanding whorling that settles quickly into brief mottling. The nose gains tar and burnt oak. The body gains more tar, some burnt oak and hints of ash. The finish gains ash and more tar. Nothing was lost.

A superb peated dram, which delivers a lot of lemon to balance it all out. Superb.

One for winter afternoons.

Technical score: 4.5/5

Personal preference: I’d like a bottle.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process.