25 years old, distilled 22nd September 1992, 58.9% abv, Second Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel, 200 bottles, dram price E

The nose has demerara sugar, sponge cake and mango - turning towards rum after a while. There's also an acetal note - a hint of copy paper. The mouthfeel is thin with no cling. The body has mango, ginger, pineapple, banana and soft toffee. The finish has mango, ginger, toffee and hints of dark chocolate.

Water brings out thick, compact, lazily expanding whorling that takes a while to dissipate but never quite mottles. The nose gains vanilla, coconut and more mango, with the acetal note and rum notes diminished. The body gains more mango and hints of kiwi fruits, and golden syrup, and the toffee is diminished. The finish gains more mango and some pineapple.

I wasn't quite convinced by the rum note, but then this whisky opened up - and it's a great dram, which really delivers a complex set of flavours with aplomb.

One for summer days in the garden.

Technical score: 5/5

Personal preference: I'd like more than one bottle.

This whisky was provided by the SMWS in a preview session - thanks to them for that. Full editorial control has been retained in the tasting process!